Model of the Saline Royale, from the Musée Ledoux
photo © Thomas Deckker 2024
Ledoux: The Saline Royale
I became aware of Claude-Nicolas Ledoux's Saline Royale at Arc-et-Senans (1775-79) while a student at the
Architectural Association School. I did not think I would ever see it as it was quite derelict at that time and in a fairly remote part of France. I don't think anyone would have predicted then that it would be restored and declared a
UNESCO World Heritage site. One of the listing criteria notes that it is "the first architectural complex on this scale and of this standard designed as a place of work. This is the first instance of a factory being built with the same care and concern for architectural quality as a palace or an important religious building. It is one of the rare examples of visionary architecture." It is worth acknowledging that both political and civic organisations in France have restored and made public monuments of national architectural heritage, not just the famous
chateaux but the strange buildings from the end of the
ancien régime, like Ledoux's Saline Royale and
Rotonde de la Villette.

Flow of Salt, Saline Royale
photo © Thomas Deckker 2024
The Temple of Minerva Medica, Rome from
Giovanni Battista Piranesi: Le Antichità Romane, Vol 2 Plate 32 (Rome 1756)
The half dome, while obviously just the remaining half of the complete building, was used by Ledoux as a design motif for entrances to buildings including the Saline Royale. Possibly the last use of this motif was Bush House in London (designed by the otherwise Modernist American architect H W Cobbett, 1925-35), clearly based on Ledoux's Hôtel Guimard (1770-73).
Entrance Pavilion, Saline Royale
photo © Thomas Deckker 2024
Anthony Vidler's authoritative Architecture and Social Reform at the End of the Ancien Régime places Ledoux's work into the context of the ideas circulating at the end of the eighteenth century in France. The Enlightenment, although now hardly acknowledged, was one of the major turning points in European intellectual history: the spotlight of rational thought was turned to illuminate - among many other disciplines - science - exemplified by René Descartes (1596–1650) and Isaac Newton (1642–1727), celebrated by Boullée - and political philosophy - exemplified by John Locke (1632–1704). The Enlightenment may be dated conveniently to the foundation of the Royal Society in England in 1660 and the Académie Royale des Sciences in 1666 in France. Architects were fundamental to these societies: Christopher Wren, architect of St Paul's Cathedral, and Claude Perrault, architect of the East Wing of the Louvre, were among the respective founders.

The House of the Director from the Entrance Pavilion, Saline Royale
photo © Thomas Deckker 2024
Production buildings and House of the Director, Saline Royale
photo © Thomas Deckker 2024
Workshop / dormitory Pavilions, Saline Royale
photo © Thomas Deckker 2024
View from a workshop / dormitory, looking towards the production building, Saline Royale
photo © Thomas Deckker 2024
Interior of a workshop / dormitory, Saline Royale
photo © Thomas Deckker 2024
Museum in a workshop building, Saline Royale
photo © Thomas Deckker 2024
The House of the Director, Saline Royale
photo © Thomas Deckker 2024
The House of the Director, Saline Royale
photo © Thomas Deckker 2024
Allan Braham notes in The Architecture of the French Enlightenment that "in many of Ledoux's houses the density of the planning made top-lighting necessary for the central rooms" which certainly applies to the House of the Director.
The Ideal City of Chaux
The Ideal City of Chaux
from Claude-Nicolas Ledoux: L’Architecture considérée sous le rapport de l’art, des mœurs et de la législation (Paris 1804)
The Saline Royale became famous not only for its remarkable buildings but because it formed the basis of the Ideal City of Chaux, which Ledoux elaborated while in prison during the Revolution. Ledoux mirrored the plan of the Saline Royale to form a circular city, still focussed on the House of the Director but containing other buildings deemed necessary for the Utopian programme of the Revolution. These included, as well as utilitarian buildings, the notorious oikema a gigantic brothel in the shape in plan of an erect penis.
Claude-Nicolas Ledoux: Barrière St Martin, Paris (1785-1790)
from Daniel Ramée: C.N. Ledoux, l'architecture (Paris 1847)
Industrial Architecture
Derelict Building, Kings Cross
photo © Thomas Deckker 1988
Jean-Nicolas-Louis Durand: Deuxième Partie. De la Composition en Général.
from Nouveau Précis des Leçons d'Architecture (Paris 1813)
Durand not only projected new buildings types with his rational grid, but revised historical buildings according to his principles. This led to some strange distortions in spatial planning.
Plate: Saltworks
from Denis Diderot: Encyclopédie (Paris 1751-72)
In the end this form of industrial architecture was a total dead end. The integration of industrial and domestic buildings turned out not to be viable. What worked for industrial architecture were mill buildings, a revolutionary form of building without iconography or aesthetic programme. The contemporary, and equally utopian, New Lanark, also a UNESCO World Heritage site, was more prescient in how the factories and houses would be designed and organised in the Industrial Revolution. Fortunately we can appreciate the Saline Royale for the quality and personal vision of Ledoux's architecture.
Spörryfabrik, Liechtenstein
photo © Thomas Deckker 1997
Footnotes
Thomas Deckker
London 2026